THE FIRST SHIVLINGA OF KASHI
The first shivling of Kashi is at “Gauri Kedareshwar Mandir”. Yes, you read it right, the first shivling of Kashi is not Visheshwar Linga at Shri Kashi Vishwanath Temple but the Kedareshwar Linga at Kedar Ghat, which is also, one of the 14 most prominent Shivlinga in Varanasi. As I walked through the narrow lanes of Varanasi, I found different symbols of spirituality. My Google didn’t work so I relied upon locals to help me navigate to this divine temple.
Finally, I arrived at this place but I struggled to find the temple as it was merged beautifully with its serene and antique surrounding. I entered the Satyug Temple (as claimed by the temple head priest) which seemed to be built from the ashes of pyres. As every idol of god, from big to small was made up of pure Blackstone with the totality of insane architecture.
The priest was friendly enough to not only tell an astounding piece of history attached to the temple, but he also made me do Jal-Arpana and showed the linga from close up and told me that it is made up of Daal & Chawal (Rice & Pulses) and another point of interest was the fact that unlike any other shivlinga, Kedareshwar linga is divided into two parts. It is believed that Lord Shiva & Goddess Parvati represents each part and they even made Khichdi (Porridge) here, of which ingredients are still clearly visible. It was nothing less than an absolute magic for me as I could see real rice grains which is exactly how Lord Shiva left thousands years ago. After surrendering science before spirituality I took a round of the inner temple premises to realise, that not only the walls around me but the floor beneath me is made up of white marble with the Mantras, Shiv Stotram and Shloks and the names of devotees carved on it in both Hindi, Sanskrit and Tamil. The engraved beauty filled me up with great respect for Sanatana Dharma and the true craftsmanship of ancient India.
Every inch of this temple was meant to be adorned and how can I forget the gate situated at the backside of the temple which was the door to heaven. The backdoor connects the Gauri Kund and Kedar Ghat with the Temple and every evening people come to witness the mesmerizing Aarti at Kedar Ghat. The staircase across 84 Ghats of Kashi is of different size, shape and colour adding to its uniqueness. But the Kedar Ghat is the only ghat among all to have straight and symmetrical staircase of bright red and white color; descending straight from Temple Gate to Maa Ganges.
As per Skandpurana, those who worship at Gauri Kedareshwar Temple get boons equal or more to that of Kedareshwar Jyotirlinga in Uttarakhand. The interesting story behind this reason is mentioned in the Kashi Khand, where Saptarishi Vashist visited Kedareshwar Linga in the Himalayas every year for 61 years to worship Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati, but when due to old age he couldn’t visit Himalayas, it was then when Gauri & Kedareshwar appeared before him one night in his dream and Lord Shiva, who was very impressed with Vashisht, gave him moksha (Liberation). To which Guru Vashisht asked to Lord Shiva, “O Lord!, Why don’t you give your blessings to all your bhakts in Kashi?”, then immediately after the dream, when Guru Vashisht woke up he saw Kedareshwar Linga next to him.
Since I visited this temple early morning, the air was echoing with the lines like “Har Har Mahadev”, “Om Namah Shivaay”, “Shiv Shayambhu” from every corner of the premises. The waves of the temple bells and people from all ages meditating on the high rise platform and doing rituals with diyas and incense sticks at mini idols of other gods and goddesses, filled me up with an infinite positive energy and strengthened my belief in SHIVA - The Eternal Universe.
Coming from the roadside, gave me a chance to try my hands on Idli and Chutney (No Sambhar), which they served with curry leaves, red chilli and mustard seeds tadkaaa. The idli was super soft while the spicy chutney added to the tenderness of the idli by beautifully making its way through the airy spaces in between.
The culture influence from the southern part of India around this temple is due to the strong presence of South Indian in the nearby locality who migrated to Varanasi generations back. Therefore, his temple has a special place in the heart of South Indians and every year thousands of devotees come for Jal-Arpana at the first shivlinga of Varanasi. Multiple donations have been made by South Indians to renovate this temple, whose names are even carved out on the marbles, and one of the major renovation was being done by Rani Ahilya Bai Holkar, who has led a very glorious life in protecting Sanatana Dharma during Mughal and British invasion.
On my way to Gauri Kedareshwar Temple, on my left I found the very famous Chintamani Ganesh Temple, which holds great significance in the history of Kashi as well as in the hearts of every Benarasi. Locals believe that Bhakts are fulfilled with all their desire, by the Lord Chintamani Ganesh.
With my heart and soul filled with cosmic waves of SPIRITUALITY, I couldn’t describe more of what I have experienced in words. So, if you have read it till here, then do ensure to take blessings from the Lord Chintamani Ganesh and Mahadev at Shri Gauri Kedareshwar on your next trip to Varanasi.
"Shreyasi Sharma is an ex - banker and a passionate solo-traveller. Sharing her soulful experiences through blogs keeps her indulged consciously while travelling. For her, travelling is about discovering the self (Brahma) and understanding the nuances of life around. "